Scenic European Routes

Few roads in Europe capture the imagination quite like the Amalfi Coast drive. Carved into steep limestone cliffs and winding along the azure Mediterranean Sea, this 50-kilometer stretch of coastal highway between Sorrento and Salerno offers one of the most dramatic and beautiful driving experiences in the world. In this comprehensive guide, we'll help you navigate this challenging but rewarding route, highlighting the best stops, hidden gems, and practical advice for an unforgettable Italian adventure.

Understanding the Amalfi Coast Road

The main Amalfi Coast road (SS163 Amalfitana) was built during the Bourbon period in the 19th century and follows the natural contours of the coastline. It's an engineering marvel, hugging cliff faces that plunge dramatically into the sea below. The road connects a string of picturesque towns and villages, each with its own unique character and charm.

This UNESCO World Heritage site attracts visitors from around the world, making it one of Italy's most popular destinations. While its beauty is undeniable, the narrow, winding road presents unique challenges for drivers – especially during the busy summer months.

Best Direction to Drive the Amalfi Coast

There's considerable debate about the best direction to drive the Amalfi Coast road. Here are the options:

• West to East (Sorrento to Salerno): Driving in this direction puts you on the sea side of the road, offering unobstructed views of the coastline. However, this also means you'll be on the outside lane, closer to the edge with steep drops.
• East to West (Salerno to Sorrento): This direction puts you on the mountain side of the road, which some drivers find less nerve-wracking. The views are still spectacular, but you'll need to look across the oncoming traffic lane to see the sea.

Our recommendation: If you're a confident driver familiar with narrow roads, the west to east route offers the best views. If you're more nervous about the driving conditions, consider east to west. Alternatively, you might want to drive the route in both directions to experience different perspectives.

Must-Stop Towns and Villages

Positano: The Jewel of the Amalfi Coast

With its pastel-colored houses cascading down the hillside to the sea, Positano is perhaps the most photographed and iconic town on the Amalfi Coast. Its vertical layout means lots of steps, but the effort is rewarded with breathtaking vistas.

What to See and Do:

• Spiaggia Grande: The main beach with its distinctive black and white pebbles.
• Church of Santa Maria Assunta: Known for its majolica-tiled dome and a Byzantine Black Madonna icon.
• Path of the Gods: For the adventurous, this hiking trail offers spectacular views of the coastline from above.

Parking Tip: Parking in Positano is extremely limited and expensive (€5-8 per hour). Consider using one of the private parking garages at the top of the town and walking down, or arriving early morning or late afternoon to find a spot.

Amalfi: The Heart of the Coast

The town that gives the coastline its name, Amalfi was once a powerful maritime republic. Today, it's a charming coastal town with a distinctly medieval atmosphere and is generally less crowded than Positano.

Don't Miss:

• Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Sant'Andrea): With its striking striped façade and 57 steps leading up to the entrance.
• Paper Museum (Museo della Carta): Learn about Amalfi's history of papermaking, an art brought from the Arab world.
• Marina Grande: The main beach, perfect for a refreshing swim after exploring the town.

Parking Tip: There's a large parking garage built into the mountain just as you enter Amalfi from the west. It fills up quickly in summer, so arrive early.

Ravello: The Elegant Retreat

Perched 365 meters above the sea, Ravello offers a peaceful respite from the busier coastal towns. Its lofty position provides some of the most spectacular views of the coastline.

Highlights:

• Villa Rufolo: Historic villa with cascading gardens that inspired Richard Wagner's opera Parsifal.
• Villa Cimbrone: Home to the "Terrace of Infinity," with its classical marble busts overlooking the endless horizon.
• Ravello Festival: If visiting in summer, check out this renowned music festival held in the gardens of Villa Rufolo.

Getting There: Ravello sits inland, requiring a detour from the main coastal road. The drive up features numerous switchbacks but rewards with cooler temperatures and less crowds.

Hidden Gems Along the Route

Praiano: Authentic Charm

Located between Positano and Amalfi, Praiano offers a more authentic experience with fewer tourists. It's known for its spectacular sunsets, as the town faces west toward Positano and Capri.

What to Experience:

• Marina di Praia: A small, picturesque beach set in a natural fjord.
• Path of the Gods: Accessible from Praiano, this is actually an easier starting point than Positano.
• Church of San Luca: With its distinctive majolica tiled floor.

Furore: The Invisible Town

Known as "the town that isn't there," Furore consists of scattered houses along the hillside rather than a central town. Its main attraction is the stunning Fiordo di Furore, a narrow inlet with a small beach and a bridge spanning overhead.

Time your visit for the annual diving competition held from the bridge in July, or simply stop for photos at this unique natural formation.

Cetara: For Food Lovers

This small fishing village is less touristy but beloved by food enthusiasts. Cetara is famous for its anchovy products, particularly colatura di alici (anchovy essence) – a modern version of the ancient Roman garum.

Stop here for a seafood lunch at one of the unpretentious restaurants near the harbor for an authentic taste of the region.

Practical Driving Tips

Best Time to Drive

The ideal times to experience the Amalfi Coast drive are:

• Late April to early June: Pleasant temperatures, blooming flowers, and fewer tourists than peak summer.
• September to early October: Still warm enough to swim, but with noticeably thinner crowds.
• Early morning or late afternoon: Regardless of the season, driving early (before 9am) or later (after 4pm) helps avoid the worst traffic.

Avoid weekends if possible, especially in summer, as locals from Naples and surrounding areas flock to the coast, adding to the congestion.

Road Conditions and Driving Challenges

The Amalfi Coast road presents several unique challenges:

• Narrow passages: In some sections, the road barely fits two cars, requiring careful negotiation with oncoming traffic.
• Blind corners: The winding nature of the road means limited visibility around bends. Use your horn lightly when approaching blind corners.
• Buses and tour coaches: Large buses regularly travel the route and have priority. Be prepared to reverse to wider sections if you encounter one.
• Local driving style: Italian drivers can be assertive. Maintain your composure and drive defensively.
• Scooters: Watch for scooters that might dart in and out of traffic or attempt overtaking in tight spaces.

Vehicle Recommendation: A compact car is ideal for navigating the narrow roads and finding parking. Automatic transmission will make the constant gear changes on the winding roads less tiring.

Alternative Transportation Options

If the idea of driving the Amalfi Coast seems too daunting, consider these alternatives:

• SITA buses: Regular public buses connect all the main towns. Purchase tickets in advance at tabacchi shops.
• Ferry services: During summer months, ferries connect Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Salerno, offering a scenic alternative with no traffic stress.
• Private driver: For a splurge, hire a local driver who knows the roads intimately and can provide commentary on the region.
• Scooter rental: For experienced riders only, a scooter offers flexibility and easier parking, though safety concerns remain.

Where to Stay Along the Route

To fully experience the Amalfi Coast, consider staying at least one night. Here are our recommendations based on different preferences:

For Luxury: Le Sirenuse in Positano offers classic five-star luxury with incredible views, though at premium prices.

For Mid-range: Hotel Marina Riviera in Amalfi provides excellent value with a central location and sea views.

For Budget: Look to family-run B&Bs in Praiano or Minori for more affordable options that still offer the Amalfi experience.

Practical Base: Consider staying in Sorrento, which offers more accommodation options at better prices and easy access to both the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii/Naples.

Conclusion: An Unforgettable Journey

The Amalfi Coast drive is challenging but immensely rewarding. The combination of breathtaking natural beauty, charming historic towns, world-class cuisine, and crystal-clear waters makes it one of Europe's most desirable road trip destinations. With proper planning and realistic expectations about traffic and parking, you'll enjoy an unforgettable journey along one of the world's most scenic coastal routes.

Remember to take your time – this is not a route to be rushed. Allow plenty of stops to soak in the views, explore the towns, and savor the authentic flavors of this remarkable region of Italy. The memories of the Amalfi Coast's stunning vistas and Mediterranean charm will stay with you long after your journey ends.